Here's some of the factors you need to give consideration to when on the road and how to deal with them. This section contains a lot of information and being a large document, is split over two pages into two parts. Click here to see the entire document at once (it's a large page, so only recommended for faster connections).
[Part one] listed in this order, jump to:
getting ill and staying healthy
moving around
sleeping and accommodation
looking after your things/avoiding crime
dealing with beggars and hassle
bargaining
responsible tourism
» Got a fast connection? Click here to see part one and two on the same page (220KB).
...or see [part two] - jump to:
guidebooks
staying in touch
eating and vegetarianism
English language media and books
washing clothes
cultural expectations, culture shock and toilets
buying counterfeit goods
details on drugs and vice, and other tips
Getting ill and staying healthy
Montezuma's revenge, the Delhi belly, worship to the porcelain god... call it what you like, food poisoning is an unfortunate caveat of travel and can strike at anytime and at any place. You will probably be at a mystery as to what has caused it and you just have to wait it out. It's effects are horrible, but it doesn't last long in most cases. There seems to be two types: one that will come on suddenly (often in the middle of the night) and see you throwing up all night, feeling pretty shit the next day and that's it, and the other, much worse, will come on slower and last several days. The difference is probably viral or bacterial poison getting into your stomach. The latter is more serious and could be something much nastier. There are literary dozens of different straits of both and pointless to cover then here, but most encountered (normally bacterial) aren't too serious.
Best advice: don't get paranoid about food poisoning otherwise it can ruin a trip and your experiences of some great food. Just allow time for it and take the rough with the smooth, as it were - there is very little you can do about it once the poison is inside you apart from avoiding dehydration (Gatorade type sports drinks are much easier to drink than water and will replace a little energy/salt) and let it come out of you (in whatever form - NB severe and continual vomiting that is preventing you from keeping water down and/or retching for long periods can be treated by tablets or an injection; either way consult a doctor if symptoms are persisting. Staff in your hotel will normally help you find medical help or bring you water et cetera if on your own). See diarrhoea and dehydration below as it is normally a symptom of food poisoning, for more advice.
Some of the easiest places to get ill are where there are large numbers of tourists and the locals have adapted by offering western type food. Nepal and Ecuador are good examples. You might never have a problem in India, eating Indian food, but suffer in Nepal eating western food. To quote from a book about climbing Mount Everest, the author stated that the hardest challenge with mountaineering in Nepal is not getting sick in Kathmandu! But that doesn't mean that every trip to Nepal, India or the like will see you with the runs or throwing up; a normal healthy experience is quite possible with a bit of common sense and a fair size chunk of luck. It goes without saying that the longer you are away the higher your chances of picking something up becomes.
The ‘boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it!' adage is well documented. So are all the cold salads, ice cubes in drinks, fruit juices, hand-made ice creams, raw food and buffet warnings. Bacteria and injected water can be inside melons, so it's best to avoid melons. In reality you can never know - personally I've eaten all of the above which are risky, and been fine, but do believe that eating a carnivorous diet you run a much higher chance of getting ill (chicken is often reheated). Just remember, you may go a year and not have a problem or get ill on your first day in somewhere like Crete. It's something of a lottery.
Diarrhoea
Chances are you will probably get some form of diarrhoea at sometime during a long trip. A distinction should be drawn between general 'travellers' diarrhoea, and severe diarrhoea. The former which is more of an annoyance than a major problem, can normally be clocked up to changes in diet, time-zone, irregular eating and general stress. The latter, more severe forms can be totally incapacitating and normally coupled with vomiting and a case of more serious food poisoning. So many things can be responsible for a case of the squits, many point the finger at water, poor hygiene in cooking and general. Quite often it can be the result of getting other people's faeces in your mouth. The dirty culprits are normally cooks not washing their hands after a trip to the toilet, but even if the restaurant cook does not understand basic hygiene you will be safe if your food has been properly cooked and arrives piping hot. Whatever causes it or wherever it came from doesn't really matter - try to let diarrhoea pass through you with plenty of water, a basic diet and maybe try apple sliced very thin then left to turn brown.
The bacteria responsible for diarrhoea and related symptoms normally dies after 36 hours. If it lasts longer than this, chances are you have nothing serious, but something treatable, for instance giardia (indicated by severe flatulence, stomach cramps and sulphurous belching) which is cured by Flagyl (Metronidazole) - see a pharmacist. By taking precautions against travellers' diarrhoea you will also avoid typhoid, cholera, hepatitis, dysentery, worms and a whole load of other rare but thoroughly unappetising diseases. It's only when you have to ask whether farts have nuts, that you know you've joined the backpackers' fraternity!
Dehydration is the reason you feel awful during a bout of diarrhoea. Dehydration (ORT - see below) salts sachets can be taken, but a four-finger scoop of sugar with a three-finger pinch of salt in a glass, with a squeeze of lemon or orange juice will do okay in minor cases (use flat coke with just salt if drinking water is not available). Try to avoid diarrhoea blockers like Imodium (unless you have no access to sanitation) as these are not cures and although they sometimes (in mild cases) can seem to knock it on the head, they often make your screamers last longer. If you're hungry stick to dry biscuits, boiled potatoes or rice.
During illness (diarrhoea/vomiting), dehydration is a risk that cannot be understated and ORT (oral re-hydration therapy) in the form of sachets of salts you add to water are very cheap, widely available even in the remotest of locations and save thousands, of lives every year when serious illnesses (e.g. Cholera) strike in the developing world.
With many travellers expecting diarrhoea, it comes as a surprise that constipation can be common. Drink plenty of water, eat fruit and have some natural laxatives at hand. If need be, massage your own belly with your hands and with your muscles (by flattening and bulging your belly) as this sort of activates your intestines. Drinking coffee or (herbal) tea can also help.
Bottled water is almost always available, unless when trekking or in very remote areas, in which case use Iodine pills or boil (chlorine can be used, but just doesn't cut it when it comes to killing some nasty bugs). Some travellers get sold on bulky water purification systems for their travels. These are on the whole unnecessary apart from a few instances where bottled water prices are quite high (we are still talking less than a dollar). Best advice: leave it in the store and try to seek out places that will re-fill plastic bottles for the savings and that green feeling. With iodine purification remember two things. One, it tastes pretty awful so make sure you have taste removing pills plus if necessary powdered drink like 'Tang' to remove even their taste and two, don't drink Iodine purified water for long periods. Never drink direct from streams, no matter how clear they look. If boiling water, allow longer times at altitude and don't trust someone else to do it properly.
They may not be exotic and you may be somewhere wonderfully tropical, but colds, flu and sore throats can often knock you down, especially in damp climates or after long haul flights.
Mild skin irritations or fungal infections can be dealt with Hydrocortisone/Clotrimazole or similar cream. Insect bites that can be very painful and annoying, including mosquito bites, can also be treated with Hydrocortisone cream (or other travel size remedies) and if very bad anti-histamine pills - just don't scratch. All of the above medications can be found with complete ease whilst away. HIV and other STDs are widespread across less developed nations (especially Africa) to a degree unimaginable in Western countries. The risk involved with having unprotected sex whilst away with anyone apart from a regular partner is prohibitively high. Meningitis is a particularly nasty disease and can kill within hours. The telltale symptom is a blinding headache and high fever. Make sure you are vaccinated (however this will only protect you from common and bacterial forms). Be aware of localised outbreaks and see a doctor immediately.
See Malaria prophylactic and treatment in the before you go section.
The equatorial and Australian sun is vicious and although you can't really avoid some exposure, there is no point in incurring it needlessly. Basically, build up your exposure gradually and cover up in the middle of the day. Be particularly careful when swimming or snorkelling, at altitude, when on open transport or any other actively that prolongs your exposure to midday sun such as hiking. Common-sense really, but getting burnt really isn't fun as most will be able to testify, however a paranoid approach during day to day activities and zero exposure is unnecessary.
Rabies can be carried by any mammal, normally monkeys, dogs or any wild animal behaving in an unusually tame manner (just give them a wide berth). Any suspect bite should be scrubbed under running water for five minutes and flooded with diluted iodine or other disinfectant. A post-bite injection is needed as soon as possible, even if you have paid out and suffered the immunization jabs. The further from the brain the bite is the longer the incubation period (which can be quite long). Do make sure you get an injection within a day or three (unless the bite is to the face) no matter how far from civilisation you are. Once symptoms appear, death from rabies is probably the worst way to go. Tetanus is caught from deep, dirty wounds including animal bites. Make sure wounds are thoroughly cleaned and that you have had the immunisation that gives good protection for ten years. If not, get a booster as quickly as possible.
There are several books dedicated to staying healthy abroad, the majority of which are complete overkill and play on people's fears to sell copies. The health sections in Lonely Planet's titles are on the whole, nothing but recycled crap with no real advice. Some of the best info on travel health can be found in Footprint guides, notably the Footprint South America Handbook.
It's important to be aware that this section is only a quick low-down on common problems: there are thousands of other considerations and as stated before, no doctors have contributed to this site.It's also worth knowing that if you get ill and can't or don't want to see a doctor, that in most developing countries you can buy almost any medicine cheaply, over the counter in numerous pharmacies without a prescription.
Just to put things in proportion, the following guide was taken from 1000 travel tips and was compiled by R. Steffen from the WHO. He has published a nice series on medical problems encountered by travellers going to tropical countries. Here's his list of problem frequencies for travellers staying one month:
Altitude sickness
At high altitude (above 2500m/8000ft) take it easy until you have acclimatised. Altitude sickness often gives you no more than a killer headache, breathlessness and a slow brain feeling above 3000m. It sets on you about half an hour after you have hit a summit and will often give you a sleepless, breathless night. Anyone can get it bad even if they have been at high altitude before, but acute altitude sickness is a lot less likely than stories you hear and read make out. If you do get it, the only cure is to come down from altitude. Coca tea can help, but the side effects of pills (tingling hands) sold in Kathmandu, can for some, be worse than any mild case. The power of the sun at altitude is a danger much more worthy of your concern.
Climbing a volcano in Ecuador or Kilimanjaro, the road to Leh in India, the Karakoram highway, the pass in the middle of the Annapurna circuit or Everest base camp both in Nepal and the altiplano in Bolivia and Tibet are the most common places travellers will get those killer headaches spoken of. Lay off alcohol and drink plenty of water (although it goes straight through you). For more information see The High Altitude Medicine Guide.
Medical problem
Percentage
Any problem
55%
Felt sick
25%
Visited a doctor
8%
Had to stay in bed
6%
Could not go to work afterwards
2%
Diarrhoea
Travellers diarrhoea
30-80%
Severe diarrhoea
6%
Malaria
Malaria in W-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis
2.4%
Malaria in E-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis
1.5%
Other places: see footnote*
-
Hepatitis
Hepatitis
-
Hepatitis A: see footnote**
0.3 to 2%
Hepatitis B***
0.085%
As a final note, take a look at the what to pack first aid kit list, but don't go mad - you can always buy medication when travelling (cheaper and more compact) and this is the one thing that gets everyone extra paranoid, so most go over the top when packing.
In addition, never forget that what you eat and drink is crucial: a poor diet lowers your resistance. Ensure you try to eat a balance of protein and carbohydrates as well as getting enough vitamins and minerals. If you're sweating loads make sure you get enough salt (put extra on your food if you want) and drink enough water. Make sure you eat enough, as an unfamiliar diet will probably reduce the amount you eat and get enough sleep and rest. It's easy to get run down in a hot climate - splash out on a nice hotel room if you are sleeping poorly - it's worth it in the long run.
Table Footnotes:
* The incidence of malaria may seem low, but these are average numbers: in some areas the risk may be a lot higher (up to 10% per day).
** The risk of hepatitis A depends on your way of travelling. 2% is for the backpacker, 0.3% is for the Sheraton traveller.
*** The risk of hepatitis B is almost non-existent if you don't get involved in sexual activities or don't get transfusions of blood products or injections with unsterilised needles.
Moving around
Moving around.. that's why they call it travelling. You end up doing a lot of it: sitting on buses, trains and taxis - at best; at worst, night buses, the back of pick-up trucks or below-par boats.
Travelling, it's a great leveller - everyone needs to spend time getting places. It's something you will have to get used to and the fact is, it's not always very comfortable. You'll also probably not be prepared for how far distances are (for example Chile top to bottom is the same as Lagos to London!) and how bad roads can be. Paul Theroux hit the nail on the head when he wrote 'travel is glamorous only in retrospect'.
You really need to look at the country summaries for exact details, since transport and options vary dramatically from country to country. Some countries will have fantastic train systems (India, China) in others, rollerskates would be more useful. Developed countries will normally have good roads, but bus/train prices are generally pretty expensive and hiring/buying a car may be a much better option. The roads and distances in less developed countries, especially crossing mountains or high areas can mean even though buses are cheap, every now and again an air ticket makes sense. And then there are the dreaded night buses, all of which are mentioned below:
» Trains: These can often be slower, colder, more expensive and more impractical than buses. However, in the right places (India, China, Egypt, Tanzania, Zimbabwe and Europe to name a few) they're great. They have the benefit that you can normally get a good night's sleep. Make sure you don't end up for a prolonged period in third class on a Chinese or Indian train, just for the sake of a few Rupees or Yuan - it won't be much fun after the third or fourth hour. Be extra mindful of your things at night, as theft is rampant on popular routes (i.e. Agra to Varanasi) - chain possessions up and keep them near. Also be aware that trains can get very cold at night with AC left on full blast or at high altitudes (many South American trains). (See image - Indian Train)
» Buses: Its buses that you will end up on more than often. You may well feel you are spending most of your trip on a bus. They vary significantly, normally in less developed countries being cheap, mainly efficient (okay, you sometimes get a break-down) and with frequent departures. In more developed countries it's the opposite. In some places like Thailand and Turkey, buses are a joy. Many countries have a cheap state run bus line and private (faster, bit more expensive) options to complement it. You soon get used to picking the right types, times, companies and seats - there is more most travellers could say about those considerations than anything else on this site! It's what they and you will have the most experience of!
» Night Buses: Loved and hated. Basically you get on a bus in the evening and the theory is you wake up refreshed in a new place, saving a day and a night's accommodation. What really happens is you don't get much sleep on the bus, feel shit the next day, save very little on your accommodation, lose a day because you sleep the next and freeze if AC is left on all night or worse still a TV/ loud conversation. Even with all this in mind you will still use them despite being much more unsafe and allowing you to see less than in the day, because distances can be so great and time so precious. Make your own choices (although sometimes there's not much of one). (See image - Chinese sleeper bus, although this type with beds on the bus are not typical outside China.)
» Mini Buses: Many countries have privately owned small mini-buses running certain routes faster, a little bit more expensively and more frequently than big buses. The general norm is the drivers of these buses think they are in a grand prix and there's always room for one more. Despite their lack of comfort (you can always buy two seats) and dangers you may well end up taking these buses, as they are practical and quick for short to medium distance trips.
» Buying, hiring or thumbing a car: In developed countries and especially in New Zealand, Australia, USA, South Africa (Namibia & Botswana) and Western Europe, buying/hiring is a great idea, and will give you rewards never expected. Be sure to shop around. If buying, know what you are buying and make sure you have time to sell it. If hiring read the contract bloody carefully and try to leave your deposit on a credit card that you can cancel, just in case they try to screw you for something like a scratch that has always been there, knowing you have little recourse. In New Zealand and everywhere else for that matter, in the peak season the cheapest rentals go fast - surf the net and book ahead.
Hire car relocations are also something worth considering. They don't give you much time, but if the timings are right they are a very cost effective way of getting around in Oz, NZ and the USA. Hitchhiking is possible in developed countries, especially NZ, Chile, USA, Europe and Israel, but can be a pain in the arse. Hitchhiking in less developed countries is less advisable - aside from the safety risk you will probably be expected to pay for your ride.
Backpacker Buses
In destinations like Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, backpacker hop-on/hop-off type buses run. Do not commit yourself to these at home (even with small discounts offered) - they sound a good idea, but for many aren't and they are not recommended here unless you are travelling alone or have very limited time. These buses are nowhere near as wild as their operators like to make out and can be full of idiots that you have no other choice but to travel with. In essence you are buying into a tour and paying more for something you could do yourself with greater satisfaction. Really these sorts of buses only become a good option in destinations where public transport is very limited/expensive, if you need to be guaranteed social interaction and if getting hold of a car is not an option for you (too expensive, can't drive or share costs with anyone).
The African tour buses that ply between Nairobi and Victoria Falls or Cape Town in East/South Africa are the most contentious issue when it comes to independent travel and backpacker buses. They generally transport twenty or so 15-30 somethings (normally British, Australian or Kiwi) through areas of Africa where public transport is sometimes slim and distances are vast, but most importantly take you through national parks (which can sometimes cost the same price as a tour and be difficult to gain access to if visited independently). Everyone in the bus works as a team and cooks, eats, cleans and sleeps together (in tents). Tours are normally purchased through the South African or British companies that run them. Therefore your money rarely stays in Africa and you give very little back to the countries you're visiting.
Overland buses are a contentious issue. Travel in Africa is something most travellers are concerned about and the tours give you the best (sights wise) of a very large continent in a quick period and their patrons (who are normally lone travellers) generally have had a good time with their peers. So those are the pluses: the converse argument is that these trips can be done independently (Nairobi to Vic Falls/Cape Town is a huge tourist trail and small tours can be taken up in order to get you into game parks), the groups on the buses are sometimes more into drinking beers and playing music on the stereo than being interested in where they are and finally, as touched on earlier, you give very little back to the nations you rapidly traverse. Having never done one of these tours there's no opinion expressed here (although from this site in general you should be able to gauge it). The objective is to present both sides of the argument, heard many times, always defended furiously.
The short of it is: You can do this independently even by yourself as a female and if you have the slightest inclination towards independence, feel you would feel confined travelling with the same group of people or require spontaneity, then think twice before booking something like this.
The fact is that if you have the time, independent travel will be much more rewarding (Africa and travel in general is about people more than anything else) and when travelling independently you will meet loads of other travellers anyway.
It is very common to see these tour buses offering cheap rides from Vic Falls (coming from Nairobi) to Cape Town (to get people on a plane home). This is because they often have lots of empty seats through drop outs on the way, which speaks volumes.
» Shared taxis/jeeps and bush taxis: There are many routes worldwide where onward transport is both harsh and impractical. In these cases taxi drivers or car owners can be approached for a price (they normally offer). This price is going to be high so you really need to split it between three/four. These taxis generally leave from a set point (when full) and although are generally used for short legs where there is no or limited public transport, but the route is fairly standard, (for example from a border town to the border), in many cases they do make longer trips. For longer trips they are perhaps the fastest and most comfortable of all four wheeled transport options if not too crowded. The front seat, if you can bag it - being the most comfortable and sometimes with the added luxury of (stop-press) a seat-belt!
Negotiating a fair price for the trip can be tricky since there is unlikely to be any 'standard' fare (or certainly not one you will know about) and the driver might want money for the return leg. Rates in guidebooks are always out-of-date when published and seasonal variations can have an affect. If you are traveling by this means regularly the best method is to find out how far the destination is so you can work it back to a price per/km for comparison to other trips and make it seem like you are not in any hurry or urgency to leave.
A bush taxi or taxi brousse is a West African phenomenon (particularly French West Africa) and in no way comfortable. Bush taxis are always private, but rarely does the driver own the vehicle, and are effectively a small bus. Almost without exception a bush taxi will leave when full (or when all seats are sold) not by a timetable. Depending on the popularity of the route this can take half an hour or even several days. If you are early you can choose where you sit: late comers have no choice - sitting in the front is the best and worst is the back (the side with no shade is also pretty bad). If a bush/private taxi looks like it is going to get uncomfortably full or take ages to fill, you can buy extra seats at the same price as your one or even charter the whole thing. In some cases you are going to be asked for more money for a big bag. On some occasions when the taxi is taking ages to fill up some passengers will club together to buy remaining seats and get going. If this happens or you personally buy an extra seat, don't expect a discount - time is not money in the third world. Best get a bush taxi early in the morning or on a market day. There are a few different types of bush taxi in West Africa, most a moving form of torture. To find out more see the West African country summaries.
» Flying: It's sometimes the case that internal flights are great value for money, a godsend and commonly overlooked by budget travellers. Certainly in the developed world, flying can be cheaper than the overland option, but more often than not it's a more expensive luxury option, but you save a hell of a lot of time and more importantly sanity, especially when crossing difficult terrain such as mountains or water. Not to mention as so many times is the case, where overland travel just simply isn't possible or physical/visa barriers create major hassle. Many budget travellers think they can't afford flights, but if you are lucky, do your homework and try and book early, costs aren't prohibitive and if you allow for a few in your budget you will feel a lot happier especially if doing a big trip over long distances. Tickets are easy to pick up while away and please remember that flights are always cheapest in their originating country or booked on the budget carriers website.
A quick note... On buses, other public transport and bus stations, especially at night, keep any small bags you have at very close quarters. Neither overhead storage nor under your seat can be guaranteed 100% safe in many places - especially if you are dozing. There's no need to be paranoid, but a strap around your leg or a simple and quick wire-lock will give you peace of mind and possibly save your trip from being seriously tarnished. Liken this to putting a seat belt on. If you have never been in an accident, it seems pretty pointless. However, with hindsight it seems more than sensible even when you don't feel like it or feel the situation fits.
In regions like Latin America and Africa, it is more than good sense. The same goes with walking at night with your bag if it can be at all avoided.
The huge growth in budget airlines, aka. low-cost carriers and technology means many carriers now operate good websites and issue e-tickets. Take a look at the budget airline list in the links section and make a few searches (try Air Asia for example) to see just how easy and cheap flying has now become. It's worth noting that this explosion has happened in Asia and Europe of course with North America (inc. Mexico) not far behind, but South America and Africa are practically miles behind - see regional low-down below. The only warning to offer is that this is no secret and on notoriously painful routes in peak seasons (say Christmas), popular legs like Bombay to Goa get booked pretty solid and prices go through the roof.
Budget Airline low-down
Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific: Prior to 2000 cheap-fare alternatives to Qantas and Ansett had failed, but then came Virgin Blue (www.virginblue.com) and Jetstar (www.jetstar.com), which both have excellent domestic coverage with fares from about 35USD. Virgin Blue also flies to the Pacific Islands (getting to Fiji, Tongo or Samoa, will cost about 400USD return) and Jetstar into Asia – Bali and Bangkok among others. Skywest (www.skywest.com.au) is worth noting for Perth to Broome (skipping the Gibb River Road). Between Australia and New Zealand, Freedom Air (www.freedomair.co.nz) has cheap flights from about 135USD and competition is fierce with Jetconnect (see Qantas NZ site) and Jetstar. Between Oz and NZ routes such as Brisbane to Christchurch and Melbourne to Dunedin make exploring much more effective than the standard Sydney to Auckland route.
South East Asia: The main payers are Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com ) which has a great routes and can connect you to the Philippines dirt cheap and Jetstar Asia Airways (www.jetstarasia.comcom), these two are based in Singapore which was home to the regions first budget airline. Across the border AirAsia (www.airasia.com) is very useful for Borneo and getting to islands of Penang and Langkawi; they are expanding fast and offer a Bangkok to Hanoi route for about 50US$ which is incredibly handy - as well as loads of other routes and sometimes (promotional) silly prices. Thailand's Nok Air (www.nokair.com) also has a burgeoning network from Bangkok and Pacific Airlines (www.pacificairlines.com.vn) of Vietnam seems to be making the restructuring steps to be come a low-cost carrier too. Indonesia's Adam Air, doesn't have the best reputation, but Air Asia and Lion Air (www.lionair.co.id) or good alternative and can get you from Jakarta to Bali for (if you get the timing right) about 40US$.
Indian and Sri Lanka: 2003 saw the launch of the first Indian low-cost: Air Deccan (www.flyairdeccan.net) which had great prices, but some bizarre fare rules and since has inspired many imitators. Routes are numerous so best to check the carriers websites or the India section of this site for a better overview. Remember also this is India and what can go wrong (delays, cancellations, etc) probably will. Good carriers include, SpiceJet wwww.spicejet.com), GoAir (www.goair.in), and IndiGo Airlines (www.goindigo.in). With Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com) and Jet Airlines (www.jetairways.com) included you have coverage of about 50 domestic destinations and several international including London. Many of these airlines offer passes if you really want to see a lot in short time, but considering distances in India you might find some fares not inline with the average Indian travel budget. Both Sri Lankan Airways and Mihin Air can get you to Sri Lanka.
North America: Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com) started the whole no-frills budget airline revolution back-in 1971 and was the model that Ryan Air copied which snowballed cheap flights in Europe and around the world. Southwest now have plenty of competition, flying to all parts of the US of A, south of the border to Mexico and into the Caribbean - carriers are too numerous to list here and normally specialise in a particular region or route, but easily revealed by a few web searches. In Canada several low cost carriers have folded, but WestJet (www.westjet.com) serves many cities and the States too. After the sell off of state-owned Mexicana, Mexico got its own budget carrier and many followed suit, the best of which are Aviacsa (www.aviacsa.com) and Aero California (www.aerocalifornia.com) both of which have English language websites. Click Mexicana (www.clickmx.com) is also worth a mention.
South America: Really the low-costs airlines have only taken root in Brazil, but still they have some useful links with some flying internationally to the big hubs across the continent. Gol (www.voegol.com.br) is the most famous and connected. Other options include BRA (www.voebra.com.br) and Ocean Air (www.oceanair.com.br). In both Chile and Argentina you will find several option and elsewhere state and private carriers (if you book right) can be an okay price, but aren't set up for self-booking on the net. In fact self-booking and using the budget airline or state network in South America just isn't as easy or as practical as in Europe or Asia with some site being Spanish or Portuguese only, not accepting foreign cards or just not offer online booking, but things are sure to change.
Africa: As with much in Africa, things are patchy at best with as you might expect, few low-cost set up airlines. In South Africa, Kulula (www.kulula.com) has an expanding network in Southern Africa and Mango (www.flymango.com) is South African Airlines response. Also worth a mention is Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com) domestic in Tanzania and Fly540 (www.fly540.com) in Kenya - with very few routes at present it seems keen on expanding and hopefully so in a continent where getting from North, South, East, West by air can be stupidly expensive.
Middle East: Air Arabia is the Middle East's first low cost airline and has some great value flights around gulf states and further airfield to India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan, among others. It's based in Sharjah which is a little bit of pricey taxi ride north of Dubai. While hops around the gulf won't be of much interest to most travellers, the potential to use cheap flights from Europe and particular London to Dubai as a stepping-stone to other more interesting destinations might be. On to India is great value and there are some interesting routes into Central Asia, Nepal and Yemen. Another mention is Jazeera Airways (www.jazeeraairways.com), which has flights from Kuwait and Dubai to India, Egypt, etc, with plans for more routes.
Sleeping / accommodation
» Developing countries (guesthouses):
In developing countries.. on the whole it is never really a problem finding a guesthouse (the word hotel is used for the most part in this section) room for the night or other place to stay (read on for info on developed countries and hostels) outside of the odd peak period (e.g. national holidays, traveller peak season in smaller towns). In general, certainly within the developing world, where there is a demand it will be met in some form.
It is however, a good idea to book accommodation for your first night if arriving late in the day or a little low on travel confidence. You can book this room by various means (guide book and an international phone call for example), but if you want to do so on the web, you can using this site, which it is appreciated - see the where to stay page.
Rooms vary dramatically in quality and value. Finding a good room or a good deal is more of an art than a science. The normal approach for most travellers is to go through their guidebooks, scanning for any hidden hints. Let's Go at least lists hotels in preference and Footprint works on readers' recommendations, but other than those, guidebooks leave you in the dark; many good places to stay made famous by guidebooks become crowded, noisy, full of themselves and non flexible on price.
A guidebook (see image) is a great guide when you first arrive, but don't think you have to stay in a hotel listed within it's pages; there are many choices and hey, guidebooks openly state they don't stay in the hotels, yet give recommendations on them! Go figure. It's also nice to give an unlisted little guy a shot at some tourist dollars. The most important factors are cleanliness, quiet, safety and price - you can rank these as you see fit. You get a pretty good feeling from a place just popping in and seeing a room - remember, if you think it has potential, but don't like the room you saw (often the nearest and noisiest) ask to see another. Also in pretty much all cases try to get a little discount especially for multiple nights. If you have the energy, try to look at a few hotels to compare - normally just by saying 'well thanks, but we normally check out a few places' the price will drop.
You can have a lot of success finding the main noisy traveller hotel area, then heading back a few streets to some random hotels that have never been in any guidebooks, and getting some fantastic, very quiet and great priced rooms. Many travellers also have a lot of success with slightly more mid-range hotels (just above the entry level and sometimes aimed at domestic business travellers) and slightly smarter looking places (particularly in low seasons). It takes a little nerve going in, hoping that they do give you a good price - seeing as most of their rooms are sometimes empty - and not the normal price that you probably don't want to pay. On many occasions you find yourself in really nice rooms with cable TV and fluffy white towels, for only a few dollars more (and sometimes no more) than the standard budget option. Although with looking for a slightly nicer rooms in poorer countries you can run into the law of diminishing returns pretty quickly, where paying a lot more gets you little extra after a certain point.
Noise
The biggest problem can often be noise. Traffic, incessant horns and people are often very loud, plus with rooms set up for hot weather, glass and walls are thin. This can be very frustrating if you need to get an early start next morning.
In main backpacking areas, try to avoid crowded hotels/hostels (and (sorry) especially when crowded with young Israelis or other typically raucous groups), rooms that overlook a road or centre court yard where people may be partying until the early hours, TVs and thin walls, and hotels with echoey corridors.
The real bummer is that you normally have no idea your room is next to a mosque, night club, temple or noisy bastard until its time to go to sleep (sure you could look out of the window but you get the drift). Ask the person who shows you the room if it's quiet, so if it's not you can always checkout and find somewhere else with fewer hassles.
» Worth noting.. Noise is a big problem in Asia, not so much elsewhere. More often than not excess noise is caused by motor vehicles (particularly motor-bikes) and their horns. The cheaper the hotel, often means the thinner the walls. It's not always true, but generally noise levels are directly linked to price, with the cheaper places always being the nosiest. TVs in neighbouring rooms may also be set loud to overcome the noise of a fan running.
Touts
Since supply normally outstrips demand in Asia and North Africa especially, you might find yourself besieged by touts, often working on commission. The hassle these guys give you normally makes you wary of them, but they can be useful if you are having problems finding a room. In addition they can get you to some nice out of the way places you would of have never discovered otherwise, with killer prices since they don't have a guidebook listing. Not all touts are working for commission sometimes a guesthouse is owned by a family and a family member is sent out, getting you to a really nice honest, family establishment. And just because you go with a tout doesn't mean you have to stay where they recommend. It also pays to find out how far they are taking you before you march off. To find a really good room you need patience, for sure, but more importantly, a good measure of luck.
You might like to.... If travelling in a pair or a group: leave someone with the bags in a cafe or bus/train station while you quickly scope out all the hotel options. You can move quickly without luggage and perhaps sometimes giving the impression you are moving hotels, not looking for one, and thus getting the best possible deal. Additionally when paying for a room in advance, getting and saving a receipt until check out is good practice as confusion when calculating final bills does happen, particularly with frequently changing staff shifts and lack-lustre admin.
Remember, if you are paying extra for anything in a room like a bathroom, TV or AC, make sure it works when you see the room. Cheaper rooms in developing countries very rarely have sprung mattress (foam is most common) and sometimes have protective plastic covers over them under the sheets. Coupled with noise levels, heat (see below) and the standard, single often hard pillow when using cheaper accommodation, this can take a little getting used to (particularly when coming directly from home) and will generally result in a few restless nights. In hot climates you may also find the lack of a top sheet. Asking the staff normally gets you one, but here's where a sleeping sac comes in pretty useful.
Why is it so darn hot in here?
Heat is the other major factor that in many situations affects you getting a good night's sleep. Expect most days you are away in tropical countries to be pretty hot depending on the time of year. The temperature outside pretty much always drops at night, but in many rooms it doesn't. This is normally because rooms really heat up in the day, especially small ones, and even with a fan on the hot air has nowhere to go. When it's really hot, in some of the ovens that pass as rooms, it is not unknown to wake up on wet sheets (from sweat) during the night, have to drink a litre of water, take a cold shower and even sit outside your room (much cooler). As awful as this sounds there is not much you can do about it apart from paying extra (sometimes a lot more) for a room with AC. You are urged to think long and hard about travelling at the hottest times of year especially in India, Africa and Central America, and especially if on a rock bottom budget which won't allow you the luxury of air conditioning.
The problem with hot rooms normally comes from lack of ventilation and direct sunlight pouring in. Look for rooms that have good ventilation (but where you can still sleep in private and not have too many bugs flying in), that does not have direct sunlight pouring in (at least curtains) and where breeze can easily get in (i.e. top floor, unobstructed). This is all easier said than done. The problem is never normally an issue in developed countries that in many cases even fit AC units into dorm rooms, i.e. America.
A recommended tip is: if really hot or unable to sleep because of the heat, wet a towel with the coolest water you can find, ring it out and cover yourself with it.
» Developed countries (hostels):
In developed countries, noise and heat is rarely a problem, but accommodation is more limited and on the whole not cheap (a budget double room (dorms will of course be cheaper) in a Sydney hostel will cost around US$65, in New York US$85). In Europe and some other places you can find a few little cheap hotels, but for the rest and certainly in big cities, hostels will be a staple. In developed countries (for example: Western Europe, Australia and the USA (New Zealand & South Africa, both less of a problem)), accommodation and finding it is an entirely different ball game compared to the second and third world and if on a budget you will certainly have to make use of hostels at some point which get very crowded during peak seasons.
The number of hostels around the world over the past few years have increased dramatically and they are finding there way into more and more destinations (for example the numbers in the likes of Rio, Singapore and Buenos Aires have increased many fold over the last few years). However, they vary dramatically from excellent (NZ and South Africa) to good, bad and just awful. They are generally at their worst during peak seasons/times when full. During these times (European/US Summer and most weekends), in any big city, it is wise to book ahead or at least check availability online with Hostelworld (see right) or similar.
With accommodation, as in life, you get what you pay for. When a hotel room in, say, Dublin centre runs at €95 and a hostel bed goes for €10-20 in the same location you do have to take things with a pinch of salt, generally sharing a room with others, dealing with noise and crowded bathrooms. But please remove any ideas from your head that hostels have to be 20 bunk beds full of snorers in a small room with lights off at eleven-thirty! Hostels simply vary too much to generalise.
For the most comfortable, private and best value nights, book and stay in slightly more expensive rooms (with less beds and sometimes on-suite) as these normally are the least popular and the have lowest occupancies. In addition try to time any visit to a big city, particularly within Western Europe during mid-week when hostels are half full and not during major sporting or other events. Also if it's near the top of the guidebook list it's going to be packed. Look out for newly opened hostels and read reviews from others who have stayed in these places (there are many sites with hostel reviews).
What's important to make clear that although there are loads of terrible hostels (normally in Western Europe and the USA big cities) there are tonnes of great ones out there, and quite a few absolutely brilliant ones. In addition, staying in a hostel is not limited by age and doesn't necessarily mean that you have to stay in dorms. Double or twin rooms are normally only a little more than two dorm beds, but do generally need booking a day or more in advance.
Booking hostels and budget accommodation in advance
As outlined, in some cases and periods it not only makes sense to book in advance in order to get a good room, but is total necessary for peace of mind. If you do a search on Google for say 'cheap accommodation in' 'Paris', 'New York' or 'Sydney' you will find thousands of results mostly from resellers working on commission. Hostelworld and HostelBooker are two such companies and the most established with the largest networks running search engines and booking facility for around eight and a half thousand places in 150 odd countries, but it should be noted are not complete listings with big gaps in places.
You can view all listed available budget accommodation in a destination, view available dates and see customer ratings. Booking is simple online and your room is guaranteed. The sting is for Hostelworld you pay a USD$2 booking charge per transaction, but that's not too bad if it saves you an international call and guarantees you a room for your first night or during a busy period; for Hostelbooker you pay no booking charge. Generally you are also expected to pay a 10% deposit which is taken off your bill when you arrive. Rates quoted are the same as walk-in rates. As an example you can view Hostelworlds FAQ page here if you wish.
Bookings can be made directly though either company's homepage, but are better made through this site. Certainly so if you have found this site a useful resource and want to assist its continuation by helping with hosting/bandwidth charges, then please do book through this site on the 'Resources' page or bookmark hostels.travelindependent.info - any repeat use is appreciated. To be up front, a few percent of your accommodation charge will be gained in commission rather than going to the hostel - you incur no extra charge: it's a big thank you for using the site.
Remember when arriving very late in a new city, your first night or during a festival these services are fantastic, but are not generally necessary for day-to-day travel and certainly not in the developing world.
In Europe primarily, University accommodation converts to hostels accommodation during summer months - these are a good bet for a room, but you won't find them in any internet searches or guidebooks. In NZ (and others, such as the excellent Southern African Coast to Coast) there are fantastic hostel guides with ratings compiled from yearly surveys, distances from town centres and facilities. These are free to pick up and mean you never need to use your guidebook. The BBH in New Zealand is the best and really shows up guidebook listings.
A YHA card can get you some discount, but you won't use it that often; the same goes for Hosteling International - but both are good networks. VIP is another similar network mainly in Australia/NZ, where you pay upfront for a discount card. Some find great value, others dislike the style of hostel and don't use the card enough to recover the initial cost. Lastly be wary of hostels that have lock-outs from say 1000-1600 when everyone has to get out for cleaning. These are common in some of Europe and especially in Japan - the bathroom goes mad at 0930!
» Other options:
In a few countries/places, private homes are an option or sometimes the main choice. These are often fine, but make sure you know how far from the town centre they are. Camping is always an option, but not highly recommended, unless in a relatively non-touristy developed country with your own transport. Getting to camping grounds is a pain without a car and camping in a hostel grounds, say in NZ or South Africa will cost about the same as a dorm bed. The same is true for European camp sites that many offer dorms or fixed private huts at equivalent to camping rates. If you do have your own transport, getting to camping grounds and staying in these fixed huts or caravans can be a cheap way to get a double room in developed countries and a good option if hostels are full - you just don't get the social scene. Sleeping in your van in hostel car parks in Oz and NZ is also an option.
» E-mailed comment: The best places you sleep in, could never be mentioned or imagined at home, they are the situations that make your trip. Bivouacking in the Australian bush or on the side of a mountain, on the beach in Turkey or in a beach hut in Thailand or Goa. On desert sand dunes in India or North Africa or in the middle of the jungle with mosquitoes buzzing in your ear or even on the top of Mount Sinai - the list goes on. As uncomfortable as they are at the time, you have paid good money for the opportunity and know at heart they are pretty neat; at least not to be forgotten.
If really off the beaten track (say in parts of Indonesia) the mayor or village chief of small out-of-the-way places may be able to help you find a place to stay when there is no hotel. However, on the whole the vast, vast majority of backpackers never encounter such a situation.
Looking after your things - avoiding crime
Crime is one of the most difficult things to write about in context in this guide. Dwelling on the subject must inevitably fuel paranoia in first-time travellers, yet glossing over it can only place inexperienced travellers at greater risk of being robbed. Simplistically, you need to recognise three things. The first is that Asian and Africa (and to a lesser extent Latin American) society is inherently far more law-abiding than our own (to the extent that criminals are stoned in some countries). The second is that thieves will be present on your trip, as they are everywhere, and they often target westerners, who are not only reliably wealthy relative to locals, but who also are very easy to spot. And thirdly, a little bit of paranoia never hurt anyone - take care and you will have a great trip. Ignore this advice and you might end up with nothing and your trip in ruins - I've seen it happen at close quarters too many times.
A degree of discrimination and caution is appropriate when you travel, but only a degree. Bear in mind that people with a criminal intent make up a tiny fraction of less than 1% of the population, so that an attitude of indiscriminate paranoia, wherever you are, can only divert your attention away from genuinely suspicious characters. Experience suggests that the vast majority of crimes against tourists occur in one of a few specific places and/or reasonably predictable circumstances. Imagine those that will cause you trouble (minor or major) are like four leaf clovers. We all know they exist, but very few have actually come across one. Nevertheless the longer you spend in the grass the higher your chances become of finding one.
» Securing your money:
As commonly stated when they cannot be stored safely elsewhere (such as you are on a bus with your main bag), keep all your important documents and most of your money, in a money-belt or similar that can be worn beneath your clothing in a manner that makes it invisible to casual observers. Some travellers seem to carry all their money and documents with them at all times (not just when on the move). Normally in a money belt sometimes not even under their clothing - this is always good for a laugh. Not only did they not splash out on reasonable clothing with secure pockets or make any effort to secure pockets/money, but keeping your money belt on the outside of your clothing is like displaying your family jewels on your front door step. Under or over clothing, it's uncomfortable in hot weather and it will almost certainly be removed if you are actually mugged. Do however keep your money belt on or at close hand when travelling on a bus/train and separated from your main bag unless it is at very close hand and 100% secure.
You should avoid disclosing the presence of this belt in public, so keep spending money in a pocket or elsewhere (better to lose a few bucks once in a while that everything along with your passport). It is also advisable to keep a reasonable amount of currency well hidden in your luggage (US$/€100 bill) as something to fall back on. One of the best places to carry money is in the top pocket of a shirt (some put a handkerchief or tissue on top of it as an extra measure). Or inside a pocket (zipped) that's inside a pocket, or in a pouch/purse/wallet attached to your clothing. Don't carry your money around in a big wallet: take out just what you need for the day and maybe your student and ATM/credit card (don't carry these around unnecessarily). A big paper clip works well as a money clip and is a good way to deal with the large amounts of notes you end up with. See comment for some more advice and testament that there are loads of variations in keeping your money safe - it's what works for you.
Very few of the tens of thefts you'll hear about first or second hand will have happened from a locked bag in a locked room.
Your things will be fine locked and hidden in your bag in your hotel room or even better in your hotel safe box, if available and you can be bothered to put your things in them every time you change hotels.
If you are really sensible... always keep a spare stash in your back/watch pocket or other zipped up and/or secure place. You should also keep in there: a photocopy of your passport and your insurance emergency phone number; plus (if you don't have them stored on-line) the stolen hotline number for your ATM/credit cards and a note of any other important info.
Always keep a record of what funds you have stashed, so if anything does go missing you'll know instantly. Personally I'd would leave my money belt almost anywhere in preference to walking with it through downtown Johannesburg, Cusco, Delhi, Bogotá, San Jose or Nairobi (to name a few) after dark.
Another important measure to take is to lock your bag up when not in the room with it or when someone else is in the room. If necessary (i.e. when windows don't lock or in a dodgy place) lock/chain it to something. In addition, make sure your real valuables are well hidden. A little cash, old passport/old credit card can be used as a decoy. Normally you should have far greater reservations regarding the security of serviced mid-range hotels than the flimsiest of security at rural family run establishments. It's a good idea to bring your own padlock, preferably a combination lock, to put on the door if possible (but then again if you don't trust the place that much, why are you staying there?). When out and about and travelling (i.e. on a bus), always know where your bag is and if you can keep an eye on it, making sure it is stored securely or locked to something if in doubt. Your passport/money should be on your person. This is very important with a small bag and on overnight trains where theft is rampant.
The best place to keep any jewellery or the likes of anything with high financial or sentimental value is at home.
» Violent crime, mugging and armed theft:
This is relatively rare and only really occurs in Latin America and Africa and then normally at night in large cities. If you are going to get robbed/attacked then there's little you can do about it and you are very unlucky, but that's why we have insurance. There are plenty of fools about and you hear only a few stories of something bad happening to someone without them doing something a little stupid or naive, like walking around randomly at night or being drunk. That said you can go a long way to avoid being mugged by applying the same sort of judgment you might in any large city. Don't flaunt your wealth - this means don't wear any jewellery and avoid tourist trappings such as a daypack, camera bag and external money-belt. Use a taxi to get around obvious trouble spots and at night. If you do walk at night (especially when alone) avoid unlit roads, parks and quiet alleys.
It's pretty sensible you take a taxi to your hotel when you first arrive in any developing world city - wearing a large backpack is like saying 'hey, I have got loads of valuables on me: rob me' and in somewhere like Nairobi or Delhi it's likely somebody might take up the challenge. And it is really asking for trouble if you arrive in a big city after dark, particularly one where the budget accommodation is dispersed and go walkabouts in search of a room. Likewise if you decide to go off trekking anywhere (particularly in Latin America) find out at length whether there is any risk in the area you are planning to walk and think carefully about what you take. This is cited in particular reference to Guatemala where hikers even in large groups are frequently robbed walking around Lago Atitlán and climbing volcanoes without guides. It always makes sense to ask. Remember criminal activity is normally always focused around tourist hot spots. One would imagine in the northern hills of Guatemala you could leave a tent for weeks without anyone even touching it.
As recommended in virtually every guidebook, when in major cities such as Cape Town or Rio, ditch as much luggage as possible (how about all?), especially day sacs. This advice applies only really to sub-Sahara Africa and a few areas of South America where daylight muggings do occur: Leave as much as possible at your hotel/hostel or better still at home. Don't wear any jewellery and certainly not a nice watch. All you need is enough money for that day - nothing else, especially not your ATM card. Don't walk around at leisure with your pack even in the day or in supposedly safe areas - a taxi or bus is well worth it.
Just to reinforce the point this sort of lawlessness is pretty much restricted only to certain parts of Africa and less so South America so don't get overly concerned - it is obvious bad stories are over weighted as they are the ones that get told the most.
» On public transport:
Generally speaking when your bag is on a bus, stored in the hold or even on the roof, it is pretty safe but keeping it close is always nice, particularly if you are sleeping. Do keep an eye out for theft out of windows, chiefly on trains.
Sometimes you hear about a backpacker being drugged on public transport to awaken without his valuables. This is not a big problem or something you should really be concerned about but, especially if you are alone, be aware of accepting food, drink or cigarettes from over friendly strangers. The reality is this is a particularly hard problem to prevent if you are targeted and can lead to over paranoia. It's only principally important to be on real guard in Colombia and to a lesser extent Thailand, Cuba and the Kenyan coast. However, it may be the case that any small bag you take onto a bus or into a bus station is a prime target.
The following is written above in the 'moving around' section, but is important enough to repeat here: on buses and other transport, especially at night, keep any small bags you have at very close quarters. Neither overhead racks nor under your seat can be 100% guaranteed safe especially if you are dozing.
If your bag does not have your full attention a strap around your leg or a simple and quick wire-lock will give you peace of mind and possibly save your trip from being seriously tarnished. Liken this to putting a seat belt on. If you have never been in an accident, it seems pretty pointless. Nonetheless, with hindsight it seems more than sensible even when you don't feel like it or feel the situation fits. In regions like Latin America and Africa it is more than good sense. The same goes (as stated above) with walking at night with your bag - avoid it if at all possible.
Always remember a daypack (and especially a handbag) is a prime target almost everywhere; e-mailed comment: 'Particularly within Southeast Asia, there has been a spate of 'drive-by' bag snatching when daypacks are put in the basket of a bicycle or motorcycle. The best thing to do is to wear the pack on your back or not to carry one around unnecessarily'.
» Confidence tricks:
Confidence tricks are perhaps the biggest annoyance and danger to any traveller to a less developed country. These type of tricks which, it has to be said, are a mainly urban phenomenon, range from the downright predictable and harmless 'Do you remember me?', 'I am going to university in your home town' or 'Would you like to have a drink with my family' (turns out you are visiting the family's shop or get a US$10 bill for a cup of tea). These sorts of lines you get wise to very quickly. If you fall for them - which is not that difficult - lose you only a few dollars and gain you a ton of experience. The other side is far more sinister, often involving bogus policemen and sometimes drugs.
If you are unsure or in 'one of those areas', the sensible approach is to ignore anybody who approaches you in the street on the assumption that they are after something. If you have a companion, simply start up a conversation with the other completely blocking the stranger out or if alone cross over the street. It is advisable to avoid, in many cases, getting into conversations as the longer you spend talking the harder these characters are to shake off. If you do see the situation becoming serious, i.e. the stranger has lit a joint and now the 'police' are here, simply keep your head, make your presence known and be clear that you will make no concessions, not even answering questions, certainly not handing anything over or going anywhere (apart from the police station by you own means).
These sorts of tricks work on fear and bullying; keep your head and don't let it happen to you (although it is unlikely it will). Even with seemingly nice guys, whenever money is involved (advance payments or whatever) it's best to be extra careful.
Really the best advice when it comes to money is trust no-one. Don't leaving it lying around in sight or display it unduly. Be wary of paying in advance when there are no business premises or guarantees and finally be as clear as you can on agreements of prices for goods or services when you are paying after the event (i.e. taxi ride).
» Pick pocketing and casual theft:
Most casual thieves and pickpockets operate in busy markets and bus/train stations, so keep a close watch on your possessions in such places. Bus stations in Latin America see a fair few bags go missing from those who idly watch them or are easily distracted (it doesn't take much to lock or clip a bag to a fixed object). When catching a bus, having a (as in only one) compact bag makes life much easier. Simply aim to get out of bus stations quickly, pay attention during any crush getting on and off town buses and follow the advice given above regarding how to carry your money. Quite frankly there is no reason to carry around anything near to a large sum of money or important documents in your pockets. If you have been to the ATM or bank, drop it off or secure it first. If you don't, you only have yourself to blame.
The raise of portable electronic devices such as mobile phones, digital cameras or MP3 players which almost all travellers seem to take away with them has resulted in an equally matched rise in the number of these items disappearing. Whereas the vast, vast majority of the world has in general low levels of violent crime and a low threat of terrorism or other dangerous activities, petty theft, however, is becoming increasingly common, and travellers should take precautions, especially with mobile phones, digital cameras, and other small electronics which are easily “misplaced.”
If all this section makes you think twice about your trip... don't worry -
'Just like there are two different types of people, there are two different types of days travelling: M and F. Well F stands for fine, now most people think M stands for miserable - wrong, memorable. Many travellers like to remind themselves that a bad day travelling is better than a good day at work'.
On the once excellent (now over commercial) Lonely Planet website there is a section called postcards, which mainly consists of notes written by those who have been unlucky enough to fall victim to crime to warn others of it. On the whole this is completely unrepresentative and tends to make you quite nervous, but is always worth a read as it's a good reference of the latest scams and will make sure you keep your guard up with a measure of paranoia in the best possible way. Remember, better a little paranoid than naive and the victim of crime.
Remember most incidence of theft abroad are of the 'sticky finger' variety, compared to something more sinister: make sure bags and side pockets are locked at all times and anything you carry on your person is also secure. There isn't a city in the world, be it Zürich or Nairobi where at the wrong place and wrong time, given an easy opportunity you'll end up with something pinched.
Dealing with hassle and beggars
In many destinations worldwide, dealing with the day to day hassle of touts, sellers and the constant need to bargain is just something you will have to get used to, especially in North Africa and the Asian Sub-Continent. Beggars are a more universal problem: hell, there are quite a few even in the richest countries. Nevertheless, beggars differ quite substantially in the less developed world. With a large proportion of its population living in poverty, even those with homes and jobs, those who do beg can be considered in dire straits: they are often women, children and the ill or disabled. Your heart strings are easily tugged by child beggars and the very poor or misfortunate: landmine victims, those with multiple sclerosis or polio, victims of earthquakes or other recent disasters. Those are just a few examples - the point is guilt can over ride you. You live in comfort and have everything, compared to their nothing. But such feelings of benevolence cannot be sustained, such is the volume of human misery around the world and you soon, in many cases, become impervious to it. Those who set off on a third world trip with notions of philanthropy will soon be overwhelmed and cut short.
Your compassion is tested when your trip is compromised by sometimes constant hassle, even when you are eating in restaurants, and when you consider that begging can be big business. In India for example, parents have been known to inflict a physical disability on children to insure begging income. Children are often begging because they have been sent out to do so, often in gangs and some beggars directly target tourists. Reiterating what you'll find below under responsible tourism: do not give to beggars that are specifically targeting tourists and especially not to children (not pens, sweets or anything) something most travellers flaunt. Of course compassion is required, but it can more effectively delivered through some of the ethical considerations below and also by giving in small quantities where locals give (make a point of giving if you have not been asked) and/or to schools plus recognised charities. In the long run however you can (and probably will) just get very worn down by beggars - read on how to deal with hassle.
Hassle, in the way of pugnacious touts, salesmen, rickshaw drivers and beggars in most less developed countries, starts the moment you step off the plane and only stops when you go to sleep or step back on the plane. It is at its worst where there are high concentrations of tourists, in the Asian Sub-Continent (worst: Northern tourist circuit India) and North Africa (worst: parts of Egypt and Morocco).
The most unpleasant thing about hassle is that it makes you jaded to locals and compromises your appreciation of some beautiful places/people. Try enjoying a walk down the Nile in Luxor at sunset or a appreciating the spenders of Agra/Delhi in India, the latter being places where all travellers seems to be permanently on edge! Some of the worst places in the world are the tourist hotspots of Egypt, Morocco, India (particularity the state of Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan) and Indonesia (notably Kuta beach in Bali). However it is worth noting that the following text and advice does really relate to these kind of hotspots and is not reflective of the vast majority of the world including the Americas where hassle is limited.
Humour goes a long way and keeps you and everyone in a good mood. Street seller approach you selling an item that even they, for sure, know you won't want. A guy offers a huge bar of laundry soap - smile and say 'no thanks, no water'! Rickshaw driver insists you visit a shop, let him know you are desperate for the toilet and if you don't get to your destination fast you'll soil his vehicle! Taxi driver repeatedly offers his services, tell him you'll on trip to walk across the country (in India saying you're on a Salt March is a good one). You get the picture. One suggestion is to ask 'is it free?' in the local/native language, which works as treat. After this for the more persistent breed who may still be bothering you, be firm, make eye contact and let them know your answer and then ignore (if you keep saying no, looking or or didn't make it clear first it sends the message you are not sure).
Simply ignoring is often the best policy as it can be difficult to respond to everyone particular when you are greeted which volley of hassle you might find around major monuments. Just keep taking to a companion and/or walking. Often responding in anyway can and does encourage hassle, likewise asking for a price of an item you are not serious about buying will give you increased hassle - you'll often see touts/salesmen/beggars following tourists for great lengths of time, because they smell a commission/sale/donation in their actions. It's not pleasant being followed, but it's one of many physiological tactics you'll find employed, all of which bully you to giving in to what in real terms isn't a huge amount, but quite simply the golden rule is don't get bullied. If a driver or other asks for a tip or a greater than agree price for his service and you feel he doesn't deserve it - don't give it. If someone offers to help you out of kindness and then asks for payment or someone takes payment and keeps standing with his hand out looking disrespecting at the agree amount you gave, don't fold - chances are it will only be over a small amount, but by giving in you increase hassle for the next traveller and that small amount would be better given to a needy beggar who isn't targeting tourists. Don't be made to feel bad about it, if you are clear at the onset you are not in the wrong.
The same goes for operators (be them hotel or tour) and especially rickshaw drivers who hack up a price or maintain they misunderstood your agreement. Again be firm and don't get bullied. If necessary leave the agreed money on the rickshaw seat (they often will not take it by hand) and just walk off. You soon learn to be firm and very clear in agreeing prices/services. Make sure you are understood and do not give into any, 'yes, yes' or 'as you like' agreements or acknowledgements. In places like India, with the right (smiley, not ultra-serious) attitude and use of eye contact, you will get a lot less hassle after a few weeks.
Equally drivers, salesmen and strangers will often bombard you with question like 'where are you staying?', 'have you visited this or that?', 'where are you from?', or anything that gets you saying yes. On the whole once they get talking, on friendly terms and have enough information, services offered are much harder to turn down. Once again it's just another tactic and as always there is rarely a need to be rude, but if you don't want something say no and if at the first question motives are clear, don't enter into the conversation. A variance of this and probably the most jading and invidious instances are when you meet a nice guy who after taking the time to talk to you and often helping you, turns out to have alternative motives and is selling something (see confidence tricks in the above section).
To summarise, you will soon develop your own techniques - be firm, polite and accompany your firm 'no thank you' (in the local dialect if you can) with a smile. After that don't make eye contact, don't keep repeatedly saying 'no' or get angry. With salesmen, if you show any more interest this is when touts are particularly determined and most frustrating.
On some occasions beggars, especially children, will make body contact, tugging on your clothing. In this case remove their hand and looking them directly in the eye, make your 'no' clear. When a beggar or salesman sees you have no interest, they soon move on to their next target. Remember constantly turning around to say no over and over again shows you are obviously not sure and worthy of further hassle.
Comment:
'I think something you should add to your section on begging is that if any backpacker is really feeling like doling out some cash, he/she should give it to someone who deserves it. In many countries around the heavily touristed areas people beg because by doing so, they know they can make much more than a hardworking local will on a daily basis (and are often resented by the locals in such cases). If feeling generous, one should give a couple of extra bucks to the woman that works nine or ten hour days at your guesthouse scrubbing your floors.' - Brian Hnatiak
Bargaining
Constant bargaining is something else you will probably have to deal with and it really is (in 8/10 cases, but which ones?) a they win, you lose situation, as the smart seller's way is normally to massively inflate the price for ignorant tourists. The actual price can be up to ten times less than the starting price and it is when you hear these quotations and know the correct/fair price and have to spend so much time and effort to achieve something close to it, is when you get so frustrated. If so count to ten and move onto the next vendor and make it clear why you are doing so. This almost always happens in locations that have a large tourist footfall. Many traders are honest and getting a little ripped-off is just a fact of travelling - after all, you can afford it, so don't get too enthusiastic or disillusioned.
This subject still needs more explanation as it's often misrepresented in guide books and by other travellers, who sometimes assert that every price is negotiable. This is a half truth, almost always applicable to souvenir sellers, taxi, rickshaw etc. drivers and a few others that become clear when on the road, but not always in other situations depending in large measure on the nature of the country you are in.
Prices are always going to be higher in a sellers market than a buyers one, so if you need something like a long distance ride in a taxi or a souvenir where there is much competition don't get too enthusiastic and waiting to be approached rather than approaching works wonders. Equally the western mentality of asking a price and retreating if not interested can be considered as an insult. Bottom line is if you don't have serious intentions of buying - don't ask the price and certainly don't start negotiating, doing so will only invite hassle.
It goes without saying that the problem facing the traveller going from town to town and country to country is knowing when they are being asked a fair price, and thus hitting the right balance between politely paying up and aggressive posturing to establish if they are being ripped off. To complicate the matter further is the notion of a fixed price, as locals will bargain as well. The best approach is to visit a few stalls and get a feel for a price (walking away will always lower a very high price) and if a stall owner is reluctant to negotiate, you can assume you have a fair price. Likewise quotations that start with the word 'around' or 'something like' are certainly far off realistic.
Conversely, if buying a 'daily item' like a bottle of water, ice cream, bus farSe or similar, and you find yourself in a bargaining situation, where maybe the seller has dropped the price after your hesitation, don't bargain. These are not items anyone bargains for and you are simply being ripped-off. In the event tell the vender to get knotted and walk to another seller. However let's keep things in perspective, in experience it is only in areas with a high tourist volume that absurd prices are asked and everyone seems keen to add their own 'little commission'.
As stated, tourist souvenir sellers (especially African curio sellers and mass tourism areas of Asia) in particular always ask an inflated price. These are often so whimsical that you can't really have a rule of thumb. But even when buying curio (African wooden carvings) and similar, you can bargain too far. Have watched a couple off an overland truck in Malawi buy a carving which the seller wanted the equivalent of US$10 for. It was a nice piece and probably took about two to three days to make. Generally the going price for an item like this would be US$7 which the seller soon dropped to. However the couple then spent the next 15 minutes getting him down to US$5. Another example that was e-mailed, was in Sumatra, where one of a tourist group hassled a stall keeper to a point where she sold an item for a 5 cent profit. This sort of behaviour is disgraceful and goes on all the time (see the 'value of your money' write up in the following section). Rather than giving to beggars, consider being a little generous when dealing with individual souvenir and fruit sellers (not large stalls).
One argument often heard is that travellers have an ethical duty to bargain prices as low as possible, otherwise they risk triggering inflation that will eventually put goods out of the reach of locals.
If you think hard about this, apart from a few extreme cases, you'll only see this sort of statement to be obnoxiously self-serving.
Overcharging on transport, private or otherwise, is common place in many countries and there is little you can do about it except be philosophical. Nobody likes being ripped off but if that's the price, you have to pay it and if it is a little inflated then why should a few dollars extra ruin your day/trip? That said, always arrange a price before you get into a taxi or any other mode of transport: ask a local if unsure. Some drivers are very good with 'as you like' or 'cheap' type sayings, mimicking bad English. Be firm - don't get bullied. If there is no meter, agree a fair price before you set off.
Responsible tourism
Travel to the furthest corners of the globe is now commonplace. The mass movement of people for leisure and indeed business is a major source of foreign exchange and economic development in many parts of the world. The benefits of travel are self-evident for both host and travellers. However, there is a big downside, with tourism far from being the smokeless industry it is self-promoted as. Impacts can seem remote, like the pollution caused by your air travel, but individual choices and awareness can make a difference and collectively, travellers can effectively shape a more responsible and sustainable industry. The following considerations are solely a few ideas, but should always be borne in mind:
Avoid giving to beggars who you can see are specifically targeting tourists. It creates more hassle for future tourists and a non-sustainable dependence. See dealing with hassle and beggars above.
Spend money on locally produced (rather than imported) goods and use common sense when bargaining - your few bucks saved may be a day's income or more .
Learn about local etiquette and culture (the 'culture shock' series is very good if this is something you want to do in-depth, otherwise the front/back of your guidebook and a few questions is normally sufficient). Consider local norms and behaviour, especially dress appropriately (the biggest sinners are normally Americans, Australians and (the norm) Israelis) for local cultures and situations.
Use water and electricity carefully - travellers may receive preferential supply while locals are overlooked.
Don't buy souvenirs or goods made from wildlife, no matter how cool, unless they are clearly sustainable. The same goes with removing antiquities, whether bought or nabbed by you, from the country. Besides being unethical, the above can land you in trouble on the border.
By getting involved in illegal activities such as purchasing drugs or prostitution, you are supporting an industry that ends in misery for suppliers (and sometimes buyers). A good example is the quest to rid poppy crops from the Golden Triangle or the Filipino sex trade.
Always ask before taking a noticeable photograph or video of people.
Always consider staying in local accommodation rather than foreign-owned hotels, and give less popular guesthouses without a guidebook listing a chance.
If you are a smoker, please take your butts with you when you leave a beautiful place - they leak out toxic chemicals into the environment. An empty film canister fits into a pocket easily and is great for carrying butts.
Gifts for children:
You should have very little time or love for those travellers who carry around sweets or trinkets which they then hand out indiscriminately to children. The motivation for this sort of thing is entirely selfish, in that it makes the giver feel good about him or herself, not to mention, there is something nauseatingly paternalistic about dewy-eyed tourist adopting a beatific smile at the sight of 'adorable' children scrambling in the dirt for small change or whatever.
A last concern (admittedly a selfish one) is whether we really want to encourage children to beg from the next traveller who passes through. There are towns and villages all over the world where even right now children will ask travellers for money or sweets ('bon-bon' is a favourite) or a pen (another favourite implying education - the child is just more sussed than one asking for a shilling, a rupee or a dollar) perhaps a hundred times and hour. Then there are other places where children are genuinely friendly and never ask you for a thing and all it will take is only one naive tourist and a big bag of sweets to transform the latter into the former.
The value of your money:
Above all else, never forget the value of your money, how lucky you are to have it and what it means to others. Lets take Africa: from a United Nations statistic more than half of African countries have an average annual per capita income of US$600. This is the same in many parts of Asia and Latin America. So your shoestring budget of $20 per day is more than many earn in a week; your week's budget could be up to a year's worth of secondary education and it goes on.
The deal is, we all get into haggling, want to keep the price of our trip down and hate foreigner pricing, but a fruit vendor's profits for a day could be as low as $1 and he needs to get the bus home! You'll read posts on the net by travellers writing about their stay in $50 a night foreign owned hotels in places like Myanmar and then in the next line go off on one about the taxi to the airport being $1, but the driver asking them for $2 and how you have to stand firm. Be realistic talk to locals and develop your own understanding.
We are like many others, quite particular about this issue and consider all the effort put into this site worthy if only to put this point across and get future travellers on board and making their feelings known out on the road. This practice of handing out gifts is presumably a response to the guilt instilled by the visible gulf in wealth that separates most Westerners from Africans, Latin Americans and Asians. It is a perfectly understandable response, but don't think it is in anyway the right one. Consider why this gulf exists, and you will recognise that the most constructive role tourism can play in a depressed economy is not random handouts but to encourage legitimate and sustainable local business.
Considering that a high proportion of money earned by package tours stays in the hands of foreign investors, independent (all be it budget) travellers have a particularly high level of control over where their money goes. Collectively backpackers, even just the visitors to this site, can make a difference by not salving their consciences with a few ultimately meaningless donations to beggars or children, but by thinking about how and where they spend their money and whenever possible lending their support to locally owned businesses and community projects.
You are not expected to be a saint, but the above is of particular importance for backpackers as they often get to far more remote destinations than the average tourist. You may well find on your travels some wonderfully isolated places and think - this is not a place for tourists/backpackers. Conversely, you will almost certainly go to some remote places, completely changed by the number of visitors - the hill tribes of Thailand, for example.
E-mailed comment: On my first trips to undeveloped countries I found it quite hard to deal with begging children, especially if you even happen to see their parents (or any grown-ups in "charge") pressurizing them to hassle (white) travellers in order get money out of them (see, for example, Angkor Wat, where you can hardly walk a few meters without this happening). I personally can't support this and don't give the kids any money but it is in fact breaking my heart. Everyone needs to find their own way of dealing with it but if you like children, even only in the slightest, I found the best way to deal with it is to actually chat with the kids, talk to them and play with them - most of them don't get this kind of attention very often and they really do appreciate it. Especially in Cambodia, the kids love practicing their English and it even happened to me that the children who wanted to sell us yet another bracelet at some beach near Sihanoukville in the end gave us their stash of bracelets for watch while they had a dip in the sea. Of course that's only useful if you like children but it'd be a pity if people only walked around regarding them as a dirty trouble while they are often made to begging or hassling, or do it because they have no other choice. - Laura (UK/Germany)
Saturday, August 9, 2008
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